You can try and DIY with our Okc Plumber or Plumber Okc advice and save. The 2 foot bury faucet is really just a variation of a standard press tap where the piston at the end of the piston rod opens and closes against the water supply to control the flow of water. But in the case of a 2 foot bury faucet in the yard, the piston is mounted at the end of a long pump rod that runs down a vertical pipe into the valve body. This pump rod can be quite long as it has to get down to the point where the water pipe is buried. When the fire hydrant in the yard begins to leak and drip water, conventional repair involves removing the pump rod and replacing the piston, restoring the hydrants ability to shut off the water flow.
Frost-Free Hydrant Mechanism
Frost-Free fire hydrant can be considered a very long press tap. A horizontal water pipe to the house’s fire hydrant must be buried deep enough below the freezing line, which in some climates may be at least 2 feet below the ground. The actual valve body is located at the junction where the horizontal pipe pivots upwards into the vertical pipe. The pedestal tube is typically a 1 inch diameter galvanized tube threaded to the top.
At the top of the bolt, usually 3 to 4 feet above the ground, the 2 foot bury faucet head is screwed into the pipe. A 2 foot bury faucet is a specialized faucet that uses a support-based lever to raise and lower a long pump rod (sometimes called an operating rod or rising rod) inside a pipe. At the bottom of the pump rod is a piston with a rubber plate or gasket attached to the end. The valve is designed so that when the fire hydrant handle is lowered, the pump rod and piston are pressed down into the water inlet, stopping the flow of water. Lifting the handle of the fire hydrant lifts the piston upwards from the water intake opening, allowing water to flow above the pipe and out of the pin.
But what makes the 2 foot bury faucet frost-resistant is a design change that includes a drain port built into the bottom of the valve. As the pump rod and piston rise out of the valve seat, this drain port becomes clogged, forcing water to flow into the riser. However, when the pump rod and piston are lowered to close against the water inlet, the drain port is opened and all the water in the order pipe flows into the ground – the surrounding area is usually packed with gravel to facilitate the drain. Because there is no water left in the pipe, it cannot freeze and cause the pipe to rupture. But if the hose is attached, it can explode because water remains inside the pipe.
There are many types of yard pumps, and it is important to have accurate spare parts for your model. Many 2 foot bury faucet manufacturers offer repair packages for their products. Contact the manufacturer or store for parts online or through your local plumbing facility.
What Do You Need
Equipment / tools Two pipe wrenches
Supplies Frost-Free fire hydrant repair kit
Spray penetrating oil (as needed)
Silicone piping grease (optional)
1. Turn off the water
Turn off the water supply to the fire hydrant. There may be a shut-off valve directly in the water line. Look in the basement or crawl space for lines that leave the house into the ground (water mail lines are buried below the frost line, to the depth at which the ground freezes in winter). If individual water pipes do not have a shut-off valve, you can turn off the water from the main shut-off valve in your home.
2. Remove the head of 2 foot bury faucet
Remove the head cover from the vertical with two pipe wrenches. Insert one wrench into the vertical piece to hold it in place and prevent it from turning. Use another wrench to grasp the end of the fire head and open it. The wrenches must be in opposite directions. If the head does not come off, apply penetrating oil to the pipe threads under the head and tap hard. Wait a few minutes for the oil to penetrate, and try again.
Some models require the removal of the head mounting screw and / or packing nut before turning the head. Do not remove the adjusting screw or packing nut; just loosen them.
3. Remove the pump arm
Carefully pull up and remove the long pump rod from inside the stand. If necessary, grasp the rod with pliers to remove it; Use pliers only on the outside of the bar, not on the brass spindle. Unscrew the old piston with a screwdriver from the end of the rod. Install a new piston and secure it with the screw.
Some replacement pistons are pre-lubricated, but if you don’t have one, coat the assembly with waterproof silicone plumber grease to make it slide down the piping. Do not use oil-based lubricants that can damage the seal.
Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions, as the piston will be replaced exactly from model to model.
4. Reinstall the fire hydrant
Insert the pump rod back into the control tube until the piston is completely against the valve seat at the bottom of the vertical section.
Clean the old plumber’s tape or pipe joint mixture from the standpipe threads. Attach the tape to the new plumber to the threads, and then screw the end of the fire head into the vertical pipe. Tighten the head so that the head is firmly in the desired direction. If necessary, tighten the clamping screw and / or sealing nut.
Turn the water supply back and check if there’s any leak. If it continues to leak or if the rod is damaged, you may need to dig and replace the whole faucet.
5. Adjust the shutoff (as needed)
If the faucet lever cannot be closed completely, or if water continues to drip when the lever is closed, you may need to adjust the fire hydrant shut-off. Most of them have a square adjusting screw or lock wheel that can be removed to make the lever position small. You may need to consider adjusting until you find a point that applies just the right amount of vacuum to the pump rod. Penetrating oil to the pipe threads under the head, wait a few minutes for the oil to penetrate, and try again.
Some models require the removal of the head mounting screw and / or packing nut before turning the head. Do not remove the adjusting screw or packing nut; just loosen them. Call us if you need the Best Plumbers.
Plumber Oklahoma City, Ok Plumbing & Repair
101 Park Ave Suite 1300 # 13024