Here are some tips to work on your toilet or call us if you are needing plumbers in okc or okc plumbers and we can help. The newer and better style or type we usually use is a fluid master ballcock assembly. They are built well and have a good warranty and are easy to adjust. Most of the other brands you are not able to see the float. It is encased inside the unit. This makes it a lot harder to work on so we just go ahead and replace them with a fluid master.
It is very easy to replace the whole ballcock. They even come with nuts with large wings so you can tighten them by hand and not have to use any tools. You may need some water pump pliers to get the old nuts of.
Turn the water off at the stop below the tank of the toilet. Take the nut loose on the supply to the tank. You may need something to catch the dripping water when you loosen the connection. A small bowl or a solo cup will usually suffice. Take the connection all the way off then flush the toilet and hold down the handle until all the water is drained .( As much as possible. You can’t get it all out.)
Now loosen the nut on the bottom of the ball cock that attaches it to the tank. Let it drip to remove most of the water. Remove the nut and pull out the ball cock. You may need to twist is some as the old rubber seal may be stuck. Once you have it out clean the area good and slide the new seal onto the new ball cock. Install the new ball cock and tighten the nut as tight by hand as you can get it. Screw the nut on from the end of the supply line being very careful that it is straight and does not cross-thread. (VERY IMPORTANT. DOUBLE CHECK THIS)
Most of the new supply lines have a hand tight nut so make sue it is tight but be careful not to over tight this one or it could pop of later from just the water pressure.
Newer ballcock assemblies eliminate the floating arm and the floating ball. One species has a plastic cup that floats to cut off water when the tank is full. You can set the water level in the tank by adjusting the position of the plastic cup on the drawbars. One advantage of this type of ball disc assemblies is that it allows the water to run at full force until the tank is filled. It then immediately shuts off the water, eliminating the rinsing sound made by some toilets as the float arm gradually closes the valve.
The ball cock supply line looks more complicated than it really is. When you go to the hardware store to buy a new ball cock assembly, you will find that both plastic and metal units are available. Plastic costs less and does not corrode. But plastic parts are not as strong as metal ones. In addition, items made out of plastics usually cannot be repaired because most of them are sealed properly. Nevertheless, you can purchase a type of unit that is different from the unit being replaced, as long as the new configuration has a threaded arm that is the same size as the old one.
If possible, bring the old assembly with you when purchasing a replacement from the big box stores.. Try to find the same one if you can. If you look they will have one that is the same or very similar to the one you have and the configuration should be the same. You should probably pic up a flapper while you are there if that is the style of toilet you have. Some have a different type of flush assembly. Check and see just what you have first.
Here’s how to fix an older style ballhead assembly:
Step 1: Make sure the toilet water shut-off valve is in the OFF position.
Step 2: Remove the valve piston and you will see two washers or O-rings. If any of these parts are defective, water will flow past the piston continuously and the toilet will run continuously. Check all washers and replace defective ones.
Step 3: If the ball disc assembly is closed, replace it as a whole. Switch off the toilet water supply with the shut-off valve and flush the tank. Unscrew the float arm from the old ball disc unit and remove the fill tube from the overflow hose.
Step 4: Check the coupling or slide nut under the tank if the water inlet pipe enters the bottom of the tank. Loosen the union nut to release the water inlet pipe. Then use an adjustable wrench to grip the retaining nut or locknut immediately above the shank nut under the tank. Use another wrench to grasp the bottom of the ball cock assembly shaft inside the tank.
Step 5: Remove the locknut under the tank to remove the ball disc assembly. If the nut is stubborn, loosen it with permeable oil.
Step 6: Remove the old assembly from the tank, rescuing the washers from all joints, both inside and outside the tank. New ones are likely to come with the replacement unit, but keep the old parts until you have installed a new ball unit if the new parts are damaged during installation.
Step 7: Place the new ball cock assembly into the tank hole. With the inner plate in place, tighten the locknut on the outside so that the inner plate fits watertight against the hole, but do not overtighten it.
Step 8: Replace the coupling nut and water inlet pipe, install the float arm and insert the fill pipe into the overflow hose.
Step 9: Turn the water back on the toilet shut-off valve and check for leaks at all points. Of course, another thing to check is that the floating ball does not rub against the back of the tank.
The second type of ball tip also eliminates the floating ball and floating arm. This is a small unit that rests almost at the bottom of the tank; it is a diaphragm-operated valve that detects the water surface from below. Also, because it does not require tools, this assembly is easy to install. You can install these newer ball disc configurations: Also a lot of the time there are great videos on installing these units. There is one on our youtube channel.
Step 1: Turn off the tank water supply valve. Then flush the toilet to empty the tank. Salt the water left in the tank before proceeding.
Step 2: Remove the old ball tip assembly as described above. Slide the parts over the water inlet pipe under the tank in this order: coupling nut, friction plate, conical plate and retaining or fixing nut.
Step 3: Install the new unit inside the tank, fit the threaded shaft through the hole over the water pipe and make sure the seal fits into the hole. Start tightening the fastening or fastening nut under the tank on the threaded arm: tighten it only by hand. Push the washers into place and manually tighten the retaining nut under the tank; be careful not to over tighten it.
Step 4: Attach one end of the fill tube to the tank overflow hose inside the tank and place the other end on top of the replacement unit arm.
Step 5: Turn the water supply valve on to fill up the tank. The tank water level can be adjusted with the knob on the new valve unit.
If for any reason you have problems our just need some advice. Don’t hesitate to call and one of our Techs can help with that. That what we are here for and look on our blog for for great tips and help.