Plumbers Blog

Easy Repair Showers

Cracks, gaps, chips, or stains easy repair showers and bathtubs. Showers and tubs produced using fiberglass, acrylic, or even cast iron can some of the time be fixed yourself, and regularly cheaply. There are a few DIY items available that can assist you with fixing gaps, fill breaks, eradicate rust spots, and conceal imperfections. These may not be extreme arrangements, and sometimes, the fix might be useful yet at the same time very obvious. Yet, they can spare you hundreds or even a large number of dollars for the time being, just as broaden the life of your shower or tub until you can supplant it.

Fixing Minor Damage on Fiberglass and Acrylic

Gaps and splits in fiberglass or acrylic tubs go past unattractive. At the point when water invades these openings, it can spill behind the unit and make pools of water, drench the protection, debilitate studs, and even outcome in form inside the divider and floor holes.

Regardless of whether it is a bath, shower slow down, or blend bath/shower encompass, the procedure for minor fixes is the equivalent for both fiberglass and acrylic materials. The dependable guideline is that if the opening is littler than 1/2 inch, you ought to have the option to make the fixes yourself. In the event that you are managing a bigger opening, at that point the substitution of the encompass or unit may be in your short term.

Fixing the difficult territory includes applying a two-section epoxy exacerbate that solidifies to the quality of the encompassing material. With broadly useful packs, essential colorants can help bring the shade of the fix nearer to the shade of the shower or tub, yet the shading match is once in a while great. A few producers offer epoxy units figured to precisely coordinate the most mainstream shades of showers and tubs from significant installation makers. Knowing the specific maker and model number of your shower or tub may permit you to purchase an epoxy unit that is an awesome counterpart for your apparatus.

.Apparatuses and Supplies You Will Need

• Tub and tile resurfacing pack

• Nonabrasive cleaner, for example, Bon Ami

• Sponge

• Bucket

• Putty blade (if there is no tool in your pack)

• 600-coarseness wet-dry sandpaper

Fixing Minor Damage

1. Clean the harmed territory totally with the nonabrasive powdered chemical.

2. Rinse completely, guaranteeing that no buildup from the cleaner stays on a superficial level. Any buildup that remaining parts will bargain your fix, debilitating it and shortening its life expectancy.

3. If coordinated by the pack, apply the fortification tape to the split or little gap.

4. In a dispensable holder, join the gum with the hardener and shading operator, following bundle bearings.

5. Spread the blend over the tape or the harmed spot, feathering out the edges and making the smoothest surface conceivable.

6. Let the fix solidify and fix totally, as per bundle bearings.

7. Sand wet with the wet-dry sandpaper gave. The paper ought to be no coarser than 600-coarseness. Sand delicately until the fix region feels smooth with the encompassing region.

Easy Repair Tubs

Albeit most baths today are made of fiberglass or acrylic, more established homes may even now have enameled solid metal or steel tubs. At the point when the defensive covering on cast-iron or steel baths pieces or chips away, you risk the base material rusting destroyed and creating spills. Fixing these regions with porcelain paint ostensibly improves the vibe of the tub and for the most part forestalls further rusting.

Instruments and Supplies You Will Need

• lint cloth

• Razorblade (if necessary)

• 600-coarseness wet-dry sandpaper

• Non-rough powdered chemical, as Bon Ami

• Porcelain paint, appropriate for cast iron

• Small paintbrush

Fixing the Tub

1. Remove any chipping or harmed paint from the chipped territory. On the off chance that a lot of paint should be expelled, utilize another straight disposable cutter with the sharp edge held at about level against the surface.

2. Clean the chipped zone with the cloth and chemical, at that point flush altogether.

3. Using in any event 600-coarseness wet-dry sandpaper, wet the sandpaper and delicately buff to streamline any flaws.

4. Apply a limited quantity of finish up paint and permit to dry and fix totally, per the bundle bearings.

5. If the painted region isn’t totally smooth, a subsequent light sanding with wet-dry sandpaper will streamline the fix territory.

Removing Stains From a Shower Stall or Tub

Obstinate stains on showers or tubs can demolish its appearance. It’s an ideal opportunity to delete these stains when customary cleaning strategies have fizzled. Cleaning obstinate stains from shower slows down or baths includes beginning with straightforward techniques, for example, lemon squeeze and advancing to more grounded, progressively harsh strategies, for example, utilizing gentle acids. By and large, the straightforward, natural, and less dangerous strategies will be adequate to take out the stain.

Apparatuses and Supplies You Will Need

• Lemon, cut into quarters

• Baking pop

• Sponge

• Bucket

• Bleach

• Rubber gloves, respirator cover, wellbeing glasses

• Oxalic corrosive (5 percent arrangement) or hydrochloric corrosive (10 percent arrangement)

Removing Stains

1. Cut a lemon in quarters and rub the surface with the natural product. In the event that you just have packaged lemon juice available, that will work. Next, flush with water.

2. Scrub the region with heating pop and a wipe, at that point flush with water.

3. If the stain despite everything remains, attempt an answer of one section dye to one section water; wear elastic gloves to ensure your hands.

4. As a final hotel, attempt a 5 percent arrangement of oxalic corrosive or a 10 percent arrangement of hydrochloric corrosive. Either corrosive can be bought at a home improvement shop or home focus. Touch the arrangement on with a cloth for only two or three seconds, at that point wash altogether. Wear elastic gloves, a veil, and security glasses when working with those arrangements. If you need any other help with any issues just call Plumber Oklahoma City, Ok Plumbing & Repair or Plumber Oklahoma city.

Leak Location

The customer called us today with to get help with a Slab Leak Location or a slab leak and they had a hot spot in the middle of the kitchen. We told them it was probably a water line leaking underneath the slab of their home. When we arrived the plumbers hooked up the compressor to the front seal cock and applied air in order to try and locate the leak more accurately. We will find it as close as possible and start breaking the concrete. Which is no easy job. Sometime it comes out easy but then there are times it will have wire or re bar in it and boy it becomes some work. Some times everything is sitting on a footing and a stem wall and it is almost impossible to break the concrete. Even with a jackhammer.

Slab Leak

Hoping to find the water line fairly quick. Dig around it were it making sure there are no more leaks in the line that we can see in that area. Then we will turn the water on and see if we can find it exactly. We can usually find it pretty fast but sometimes they become a nightmare. Especially if it ends up being under a wall, water heater, central heat plenum, bathroom or kitchen cabinet. We finally find it and are able to clean it up and repair it pretty easy.

Then we will try and pack the dirt and sand back in as good as possible keeping it the right level at the bottom of the slab. Once we get it packed well enough we can go ahead and mix the concrete. Clean up around the hole and sweep then go ahead and pour the concrete. We will try and mix it as dry as possible so we don’t have to wait to long for it to dry. Once we float it down to where it is level with the old concrete you have to let it sit awhile and trowel it one last time.

When Plumbers Okc or your Okc Plumbers are assessing the job site on a ground rough in using the home owners engineered plans we usually have a little digging and we can lay all the drain pipe. This one is going to be a little different. There will be a lot more digging on this one. Usually it is the other way around because this home will be on a septic tank and not city sewer. It is a rural area out in the middle of a 360 acre track of land so no city water or sewer. So we always have about a Two foot stem wall for plenty of room for the plumbing (water lines & drain lines) with very little
digging. This one the home owner can do a little concrete work himself so no stem wall. Just a 2×4 laying on the ground after he scraped the grass off with his tractor. So there was a huge amount of digging and a lot of it was through rock and really hard ground making it way more work.

Usually we just measure, mark it off and stake where every drain will be. This way you can see where your drain is running and where to dig. This one was a little more work. You have to just roughly mark it then dig your main trunk lines digging past the drains then you can mark and stake the drains. If you drive your stake first as normal your stake gets dug up and pulled out of the way so you have to remeasure them all and stake them again.

Drain Lines

Now you have most of it roughly dug so you can start laying some pipe. Usually starting with the main sewer stub out. On one like this it is going to be draining into a septic tank so you need to be stubbing out as shallow as possible. This is a huge two story house and the upstairs stub up is way across on the other side of the structure so we you have a lot more digging to keep it all under the concrete. In turn making the stub out deeper. Also making the septic tank deeper. When starting the drains you want to make sure they drain properly now and in the future. It is very important to size the pipe not only correctly but it needs to be on grade at 1/4″ per foot of linear foot of drain pipe. It makes it easier having a few scrap pieces of PVC pipe to lay in the ditch when installing you combos, tees long sweep 90s, 45s etc… Measuring twice cutting once. Making practice fits a couple of times before primer and gluing. Practicing and bedding with a little dirt.Then final gluing twist a tiny bit and holding until dry enough to not push apart. A few seconds on smaller pipe. One and a half inch and two inch. Longer on larger pipe. Three inch or four inch. Make sure it is solid. Bed it a little more with some fine dirt. Then double check your measurements and tape the drain risers to the stakes making sure they are level and about ten inches above the concrete floor. We make sure everything is straight. Looking very good going as far as when final gluing making sure all the lines on the pipe are straight up and showing nicely after all bedding is done. Even though it will never be seen again after final inspection and after they pour the slab floor. The line will need to be watered up. It is required to have a four foot head pressure on it.In some municipality’s to pass code but if it is below thirty two degrees or below they will let you slide.

Water Lines

Now we have the water lines the run. They are a lot less work but still need to Be run correctly and pass all local codes. We always use Upunar aqua pex water pipe. It is a cross link system and has a memory when you expand it. It is way better the regular pex pipe. If you are a contractor and have done their seminar they warranty their pipe and fittings twenty five years. Most other plumbers use the regular crimp ex. It is not as good and their fittings don’t stand up as good. All we have to do on the water lines is role it out to each fixture. Sleaving it and taping it to either stakes our the drain lines. We will manifold it together on the top out rough in.